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Guigal Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis 2010

guigal_champuis
99 PP
114,00 € pro Flasche (inkl. 19% MWSt)
(entspricht 152,00 € pro l)
Flascheninhalt: 0.75 l
Alkoholgehalt: 13.5 % vol.
Hersteller: GuigalGuigal

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Traumhafter Syrah des Superstars der Rhône-Winzer


Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis 2010

Guigal

Cote Rotie, Rhône, Frankreich


Wine Advocate #216   (Dunnuck/Parker)

99/100

More closed than when I tasted it earlier this year, the 2010 Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis is an incredible effort that’s made from 93% Syrah and 7% Viognier. Coming from the estate’s top sites and aged 38 months in new oak, it has no problem standing beside the top three single-vineyard releases. Crème de cassis, vanilla bean, smoked meats and licorice all flow to a full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, structured Cote Rotie that needs another 5-6 years of bottle age, but will keep for 2-3 decades.

The father/son team of Marcel and Philippe Guigal continue to keep their estate at the top of the hierarchy in the Rhône Valley. All the way from their inexpensive Côtes du Rhône to their top-end Côte Rôties and Hermtiage, the attention to detail and focus on quality is unmatched. Readers should also check out the recent Rhone Retrospective article I wrote that covered the Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospices, Côte Rôtie Brune et Blonde, Côte Rôtie Chateau d'Ampuis and Côte Rôtie La Mouline cuvees going back for over a decade. I said it there, and I'll say it again here, this estate is producing some of the most incredible and singular wines in the world. "Everything looked so promising in September, also the yields which we really need after all the investments we have made and are still doing. But the rain caused a quickly spreading onset of botrytis and the berries shriveled rapidly, almost like in 2006. We started picking already on October 10, but we had to select extremely carefully. It was the most expensive harvest I did in 30 years but the wines finally reflect all the work we have invested.“ I don't know of any Mosel, Saar or Ruwer producer who picked his Auslesen as late as Molitor did. Except of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (which was picked 31 October) all the other two and three-stared Auslesen were picked between November 1 (Zeltinger Schlossberg Auslese ** and Bernkasteler Lay Auslese **) and 7 (Graacher Himmelreich Auslese ***)! Molitor has also selected a BA in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr and six TBAs in 2013. The wines were not ready in January but I will taste them in March as they are now ready for bottling. I will also taste Molitor's 2012 vintage then which has so far not been rated in the Wine Advocate.


 

Wine Advocate #214   (Dunnuck/Parker)

99/100

The 2010 Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis is an off-the-hook effort that easily competes with the more expensive single-vineyard releases. Seamless, gorgeously pure and seriously concentrated and full-bodied, it’s an insanely gorgeous Syrah offers layers of creme de cassis, vanilla bean, creamy licorice and smoked meat aromas and flavors. Still a baby, it needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years, at which point it should offer another two decades or more of longevity. Don’t miss this beauty!

One of the reference point estates for top quality wines in the world today, the family run Guigal operation was created in 1946 by Etienne Guigal. Today, Etienne’s son, Marcel, and his son Philippe, are firmly in control here, and are without a doubt producing some of the most singular, sought after wines in the world. Due to the size of this tasting, I’ll keep my comments short, but the incredible quality coming from this operation is astounding, and a tasting here is always one of the highlights of any trip through the region. Furthermore, while a lot is said about the extended oak aging regime here, I don’t know anyone who tastes mature examples of these wines on a regular basis that still has any doubts about the genius going on here. In short, these single vineyard (and their blends as well) Cote Roties are some of the greatest wines money can buy. For this tasting (which, with the Guigals, is always a large one!), we focused on their Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospice release, and then three of their Cote Roties, starting with the classic Brune et Blonde, then the Chateau d’Ampuis, and finishing with their single vineyard La Mouline.

Looking first at their Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospices release, it comes all from the incredibly steep (and picturesque) vineyard perched just above the town of Tournon. The exposure here (which is critical for Saint Joseph as the more southern facing the plot, the warmer the site is) is mostly east facing and the soils are pure granite (identical to the decomposed granite found in the Les Bessards lieu-dit on Hermitage Hills). Compared to the Saint Joseph lieu-dit, which has a slightly more southern exposure, harvest here is always 5-7 days later.

Moving north to Côte Rôtie, the Guigal’s Brune et Blonde is their entry level release that comes from a mix of vineyards, most of which are estate. It drinks beautifully on release and has a solid 15-20 years of longevity in top vintages.

Stepping up over the Brune et Blonde, the Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis is named after the Chateau d’Ampuis estate (which lies in the town of Ampuis, right up along the Rhone River, and was purchased by the Guigal’s in 1995) and is a blend of their top estate vineyards. Coming from La Garde, Le Clos, Grande-Plantee, Pommiere, Pavillon, Le Moulin and La Viria, it spends close to four years in new French oak (handled just like the single vineyard releases) and there’s roughly 30,000 bottles produced in each vintage. While the single vineyard releases get all the buzz, this is isn’t far behind in quality, especially in recent vintages, and can represent an incredible value.

We finished the tasting with a vertical of La Mouline. One of the three single vineyard Cote Roties produced, this cuvee comes all from the La Mouline lieu-dit that’s located in the more western (close to the middle actually) side of appellation. For simplicities sake, you could say it’s in the Cote Blonde part of the region, but in reality, Cote Rotie is much more complex and diverse. Due to its exposure, this vineyard is always the first of the three single vineyards to be harvest, and also contains some of the oldest vines on the estate. Fermented using pump overs (as opposed to punch downs for the La Torque and submersion cap on the La Landonne), it’s cofermented with varying degrees of Viognier, which in most vintages, ends up being around 10% of the blend. Like the Chateau d’Ampuis and the other two single vineyard releases, it sees close to four years in 100% new French oak, of which every trace integrates after a few years in bottle. It’s always the most approachable of the single vineyard releases, and is ready to drink at an earlier stage. For example, the 1999 La Mouline is gloriously mature, while the 1989 La Torque is still an infant. Nevertheless, as the 1978 reviewed here attests to, it has no problem evolving for decades (although I don’t recommend holding bottles that long). In short, this was a flight of Côte Rôties I’ll not forget anytime soon!


 

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