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Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 2012

Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 2012
100 PP
Reduziert
879,00 € pro Flasche (inkl. 19% MWSt)
(entspricht 1.172,00 € pro l)
Flascheninhalt: 0.75 l
Alkoholgehalt: 13 % vol.
Hersteller: Mugneret-GibourgMugneret-Gibourg

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Eine der größten Wein-Raritäten der Welt


Ruchotte Chambertin Grand Cru 2012

Mugneret-Gibourg

Burgund, Frankreich


Wine Advocate #210   (Parker / Martin)

98-100/100

Nothing quite enraptured like the 2012 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru during five weeks of tasting in Burgundy. This year it is a single cuvee: the younger vines planted in 2000 granted access to the grand vin for the first time and as Marie-Christine correctly pointed out, it lends energy to this stellar wine. The nose is one that makes you take a sharp in-take of breath and leaves you scrabbling around for words. “Wow” will suffice. It is blessed with unbelievable delineation and mineralite, effortlessly graceful yet intense and indeed, reminiscent of Rousseau’s own Ruchottes-Chambertin. The palate is refined on the entry, edgy at first with stony red berry fruit, underpinned by filigree tannins and an utterly entrancing harmonious finish that lingers long in the mouth. I would love buy all nine barrels but the wife might complain. Then I would make her taste it and she would retract that complaint. This came across as totally flawless…and it might just well be in bottle.

When it comes to Burgundy and that immoral practice of allocating scores, it is easy to get into a mindset that says: bigger is better. You look for more color, headier aromas, greater structure, bigger tannins, heightened complexity, longer finishes. More, more, more! Of course, there is the old adage that “less is more” and that is so often true with respect to Pinot Noir. I’ve witnessed grizzled connoisseurs weaned on turbo-charged blockbuster, blub-like babies when confronted with wines so ethereal that they defy mortal adjectives. So when it comes to Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, I should state for the record that for this writer, their wines epitomize Burgundy and Pinot Noir at its peak. When tasting their Ruchottes-Chambertin, it cast a spell that left my senses reeling with pleasure. And there might be those whose predilection for big, bold fruit-driven wines that might not understand why it is one of the greatest wines of the vintage. They seek a different form of pleasure that has just as much right to achieve high praise as wines that offer finesse and understated grace. I first visited this address in the late 1990s on one of my first visits to the region and little has changed. The cellars underneath the property are deceptively spacious with annexes here, there and everywhere. Who knows whom you could meet in this warren! In some ways, it is a rudimentary, functional winery steeped in history – the magic really lies in the bottle. It was Marie-Christine Teillaud, the elder daughter of Georges Mugneret, who guided me through both her 2011s and 2012s, her sister Marie-Andree busy elsewhere but joining us for a quick photo later. Marie-Christine is one of the most convivial people you can meet, bereft of the airs and graces one occasionally encounters in this hallowed village. She is a bit like your aunt, the one that always made sure you left with sweets in the palm of your hand. “The summer was not very nice and there were pressures of disease,” she explained. “We had lost a lot of berries, losing around half the crop, but that meant that there was good aeration and we had no grey rot. In July we did some leaf plucking to further improve the aeration. The harvest commenced on 25 September and took four days. Here, the malolactics were not too tardy and were completed by March/April. The wines were racked at the end of May. We have a very good harmony in this vintage, so if a person enjoys young Burgundy it could be fine. The wines are not aggressive, there is no hard structure and the wines are silky. But because of the good acidity and tannin, you can wait. The wines are vinified in new barrel and then transferred into used barrels after racking.” In a nutshell, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg has conjured a set of magical wines destined to cast spells over those lucky enough to find them.

 

 

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